How to Choose LVP Flooring: A Buying Guide From an Installer

Most LVP looks good in a showroom. The differences show up two years later in a kitchen traffic lane, a peaking joint by the slider, or a stair nose that does not match. This guide covers what we look at on a spec sheet before a floor goes in, so you can buy with the same eyes whether you install it yourself or hire it out.

What you'll need

• Tape measure and a rough sketch of each room with doorways, closets and stairs marked
• Square footage per room (length times width, add closets)
• Count of stairs, if any, and how many sides of each stair are exposed
• A level or straightedge (6 to 10 ft) to check subfloor flatness
• Two or three take-home samples (full planks if the store allows)
• The spec sheet and installation instructions for each product you are considering

How to choose LVP flooring, step by step

1. Decide on the core type. SPC (stone polymer composite) is rigid and dense. It resists dents, handles temperature swings well and bridges small subfloor flaws. WPC (wood or wood-plastic composite) is thicker and a bit softer and quieter underfoot, but dents easier under heavy furniture. Flexible glue-down vinyl is thin and gets glued to a very smooth subfloor. For most houses we recommend SPC. More on methods in floating vs. glue-down LVP.
2. Pick the wear layer for the hardest-working room. 6 to 8 mil is light residential. 12 mil is standard residential. 20 mil is heavy residential and light commercial. 28 mil and up is commercial. If one floor runs through the kitchen and the bedrooms, buy for the kitchen. Full breakdown in LVP wear layer explained.
3. Check total thickness, but do not overpay for it. Rigid core planks are usually around 4 to 8 mm. Thicker feels more solid and sounds less hollow. Make sure the number you are reading is the plank, not the plank plus the pad. Thickness also matters at doorways and against existing floors; see uneven floor heights between rooms.
4. Decide between an attached pad and separate underlayment. An attached pad (usually IXPE foam or cork) saves a step and is what the plank was tested with. If the plank has a pad, do not add a second soft underlayment under it. Many rigid core products allow only a thin, dense underlayment, or none at all, because soft foam lets the click joints flex and break. See underlayment for LVP and laminate.
5. Look closely at the click system. Click two sample planks together on the end and the long side. They should lock with a firm, positive fit and no visible gap. Flimsy or chalky locking edges chip during install. A drop-lock (fold-down) end joint is faster to install than one that has to be tapped in, and it is easier on DIY knees.
6. Confirm waterproof vs. water-resistant. Most SPC and WPC planks are waterproof, meaning the plank itself will not swell. That does not make the floor a pan. Water can still get through joints and around the edges to the subfloor. Products labeled water-resistant (common with laminate) only resist surface spills for a stated time. Read the exact wording. For kitchens and baths, also read is laminate waterproof.
7. Choose plank size for the room. Standard planks are about 6 to 7 inches wide and 48 inches long. Wider and longer planks look great in big rooms but are less forgiving on uneven floors and show any dip more. In small rooms and narrow halls, very wide planks can look oversized. Plank direction matters too: which direction to lay flooring.
8. Pick finish and texture. Embossed in register (EIR) means the texture lines up with the printed grain. It looks and feels more like wood. A matte or low-sheen textured finish hides scratches, dust and pet hair far better than a glossy smooth one. Check how many different plank images the product has. A small number means you will see the same knot repeat across the room.
9. Confirm matching trim is available. Ask for the stair nose, T-molding, reducer and end cap (or a multi-purpose transition) in the exact color. Some lines have them, some do not, and some colors get discontinued. If you have stairs, this alone can decide the product. See flooring options for stairs and flooring transitions between rooms.
10. Order the right amount, from one lot. Add about 5 to 10 percent overage for cuts and waste on a straight lay. Go higher, often 15 percent, for diagonal or herringbone layouts, lots of small rooms, or many closets. Buy it all at once from the same production lot (dye lot) so color matches. Keep a box or two after the job for future repairs.

SPC vs. WPC vs. flexible vinyl

LVP buying checklist

Bring this list to the store or keep it open while you shop online:

• Core type: SPC, WPC or glue-down, and why it fits the room
• Wear layer in mil (listed on the spec sheet, not just "commercial grade")
• Plank thickness without the pad
• Attached pad: yes or no, and what type
• Allowed underlayment and vapor barrier for your subfloor
• Click system: drop-lock or angle-tap, firm fit on samples
• Waterproof or water-resistant, and what the warranty actually covers
• Plank width, length and number of unique visuals
• Texture (EIR) and sheen level
• Matching stair nose, T-molding, reducer and end cap in stock
• Flatness spec and expansion gap in the install instructions
• Acclimation requirement (many SPC products need little or none; follow the manufacturer)
• Total square feet plus 5 to 10 percent, all from one lot
• Residential and light commercial warranty terms, including exclusions

Red flags when buying LVP

• No wear layer number listed. If it only says "durable" or "commercial grade," assume it is thin.
• Thickness that includes the pad without saying so. Compare plank to plank.
• Very soft or hollow-sounding planks. Press a thumbnail into the edge of a sample. If it dents easily, so will the floor under a dining table.
• Click edges that chip or crumble when you snap samples together.
• No install instructions available before purchase. You need them to know the subfloor and underlayment rules.
• No matching trim or trim only in a "close" color.
• Closeout pallets with no extra stock. Fine if you buy plenty, risky if you come up short.
• Warranty that excludes the room you are using it in, such as sunrooms, three-season porches or areas with direct heat.

Common mistakes to avoid

• Choosing by the sample board alone. Look at full planks on the floor in your own light.
• Buying exactly the square footage with no overage, then finding the next lot does not match.
• Adding foam underlayment under a plank that already has a pad.
• Ignoring the subfloor. A great plank on a wavy floor still fails at the joints. See subfloor leveling.
• Forgetting stairs and transitions until the floor is down.
• Assuming "waterproof" means the floor protects the subfloor from a flood.

When to hire a pro

A simple rectangular room on a flat subfloor is a fair DIY project. Bring in an installer if you have stairs, an uneven subfloor that needs grinding or leveling, a basement slab with moisture questions, long open runs that may need expansion breaks, or a kitchen with cabinets and an island. If you plan to buy the material yourself and have someone else install it, read is it cheaper to buy your own flooring. In homes built before 1978, removing old painted trim or old vinyl and adhesive can disturb lead or asbestos, so have it tested or handled by a certified pro.

Need it done for you?

We install LVP across northeastern CT, central MA and western RI and can look over the products you are considering at the visit. Book a free in-home estimate and you get a written fixed-price quote within 48 hours.